By Louise Irvine
As Halloween approaches, we look back at one of the most popular fancy dress costumes of the Roaring Twenties – the Spanish shawl. Flappers draped themselves in large silk shawls for masquerade parties inspired by the silent movie stars of the silver screen. WMODA has just acquired a stunning Goldscheider figure of the Mexican star Dolores Del Rio wearing a colorful Spanish shawl, which will go on display in our new Art Deco Library.
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Goldscheider Dolores Del Rio as Carmen
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Dolores Del Rio Loves of Carmen
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Goldscheider Dolores Del Rio as Carmen
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Goldscheider Dolores Del Rio as Carmen
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Loves of Carmen 1927
Dolores Del Rio was considered the epitome of female beauty and glamour during the Art Deco era. The female Valentino, as she became known, also sensationalized the two-piece swimsuit, which shockingly exposed her midriff. In 1927, Miss Del Rio starred in the Loves of Carmen, portraying the wild Spanish gypsy in Bizet’s famous opera, who is unscrupulous in matters of the heart. She loves whoever she wants and refuses to conform, which was sensational at the time.
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Goldscheider Spanish Shawl Two Versions
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Goldscheider Spanish Shawl Profile
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Judge Magazine Cover
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Spanish Shawl Photo by Walery
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Spanish Shawl Glamour Shot
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Butterick Halloween Costumes 1924
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Butterick Halloween Costumes 1929
The “Bright Young Things” of the Jazz Age identified with this free-spirited woman and adapted her costume for the fancy dress frolics of the time. Embroidered silk shawls were often worn as dresses, sometimes accessorized with a mantilla veil draped over an ornamental hair comb known as peinata and a large fan as used in flamenco dancing. The budget-conscious were encouraged to make their own Spanish-style costumes with the help of Butterick dress-making patterns. Alternatively, they could whip the Spanish shawl off the piano, as they were often used to protect the surface from scratches and are sometimes referred to as Piano Shawls.
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Goldscheider Spanish Dancer Two Versions
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Pola Negri as Carmen
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Pola Negri as Carmen in 1918
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Pola Negri as Carmen
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Pola Negri The Spanish Dancer
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Spanish Dancer 1920s
Several sensual movie vamps portrayed the fiery Carmen, including Theda Bara in 1915 and Pola Negri in 1918. This version was filmed in Germany at the end of the First World War, and its popularity catapulted Miss Negri to international stardom. She moved to Hollywood in 1922 and the following year starred in The Spanish Dancer, a silent movie about an ambitious gypsy fortune teller. Her glamorous Spanish-style costumes, accessories, and hairstyle were faithfully copied by fashionable women, right down to the spit curl on her forehead. Kiss curls, as they are sometimes known, were also styled on the cheek during the Jazz Age.
Unfortunately, Miss Negri had a thick accent and did not successfully transition to films with sound. However, she exemplified Hollywood’s star power with her highly publicized relationships, most notably with Rudolph Valentino, whom she met at a costume party at William Randolph Hearst's San Simeon estate. He was dressed as the matador from Blood and Sand, the 1922 movie about bullfighting, which also fueled fascination with Spain.
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Rudolph Valentino Blood and Sand Movie
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Blood and Sand 1922
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Rudolph Valentino in Blood and Sand
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Rudolph Valentino and Pola Negri
Joseph Lorenzl, the leading sculptor at the Goldscheider porcelain company, was responsible for several Spanish subjects during the 1920s. They were produced in different sizes and hand-painted in different colorways. You can see variations of Goldscheider’s Spanish Dancer, Spanish Shawl, and Dolores Del Rio as Carmen in the new Art Deco Library at WMODA.
Read more about masquerade parties
Masquerade Parties | Wiener Museum
Read more about Dolores Del Rio and Carmen
